Enjoy the beauty and peace of Poitou-Charentes region.
The Poitou-Charentes region on France’s Atlantic coast may not be one of the best-known areas in France and that’s quite special because it’s also one of the sunniest and most diverse regions in France. Maybe it’s because we whiz past it in the car as we drive to the more popular places in the south towards the Spanish border.
Poitou Charentes
Unlike many other places in France, Poitou-Charentes is mainly flat, making it an ideal area for long cycling trips. The roads along the coast give you beautiful trips with the ever beautiful Atlantic Ocean in the background.
The area is best known for its many local specialities, ranging from sea salt and goat cheese to cognac and oysters. We have chosen to explore this versatile region by bike and to be surprised with many culinary delicacies that make this region so attractive. And whoever goes cycling in this area should definitely explore La Vélo Francette.
Niort at a glance
For our trip to the Poitou-Charentes we opted for a comfortable journey with TGV from the Netherlands (see accessibility) to Niort, which is a great starting point for anyone who wants to explore this area.
Niort is traditionally known in France as the capital of insurance. All major insurance companies have a (head) office here. The city has enough hotels and in the historic center you will find many nice shops, and now not the well-known chain stores. Those who visit the old town are welcomed by two huge dragons that move through the streets almost like the Loch Ness monster. On the edge of the old center you will find a pleasant boulevard with a great atmosphere and a large number of restaurants where you can eat. On the other side you look out on the modern and beautifully landscaped botanical gardens of the Agesci museum, which is a beautiful example of architecture.
On the north side of the center, the La Sèvre Niortaise flows through the town and is a must-visit spot. Hidden in a labyrinth of bridges and stairs you will find a nice terrace where you can chill out with a view of the old town. The beautiful banks invite you to go jogging for an hour in the morning or for a longer bike ride.
Marais Poitevin, the ‘green Venice’ of France
From Niort it is a half hour drive to the Marais Poitevin which is known as the ‘green Venice’. More than 850,000 people visit this truly beautiful wetland every year. Due to its favorable location between the Atlantic Ocean and the higher areas of France, the Marais Poitevin has its own pleasant micro-climate. The large and expansive area is a maze of canals and is ideal for exploring by boat and/or bicycle.
In the area there are more than 850 km of well-marked cycling routes that take you through the special landscape of narrow paths, bridges and characteristic villages that sometimes look like scaffolding. Because of the many waters, the beautiful flora and fauna, it feels almost tropical when the sun comes through between the clouds. The humidity is significantly higher in the second largest wetland area in France (fifth of Europe). But no matter how beautifully the bike paths are laid out, nothing compares to exploring the Marais Poitevin with a low flat punt.
For years this was the only means of transport that could move the population, animals and goods in the swamp area. There are still plenty of people living in the area who are dependent on this mode of transport, which gives extra charm to this green Venice. The labyrinth of approximately 4,000 km of waterways is best visited with a guide in a punt who not only knows how to find the most beautiful places but can also tell you a lot about life in this area. On the way we stop to poke the ‘pigouille’ stick with two teeth of the punter in the shallow bottom of our river. While that happens, our guide holds a lighter near the water from which methane gas now comes up and starts to burn (le feu sur l’eau).
You will be amazed at how nature has developed along the water for centuries. So slowly gliding over the water in the silence of the Marais Poitevin you will naturally relax. Forget the range of your smartphone because it isn’t there anyway and focus on the sounds or the silence on the animals. After gliding over the water for 1.5 hours, you will love this area. Peace and nature clearly do their job here.
Along the river Sèvre-Niortaise you will find plenty of drill rental companies where you can go for a beautiful trip and be surprised by this perhaps almost hidden paradise. Average price per person between 6 and 7.5 euros for an hour and a half sailing.
La Velo Francette
La Vélo Francette is a new cycle route, with a length of 630 km, which was officially opened in June 2015. The route runs from the coast of Normandy via the Loire region through the Poitou-Charentes to the Atlantic Ocean (La Rochelle). The route follows cycle paths, small roads, beautiful gravel paths along the banks of the Mayenne and the often kilometers long Voie Vert paths. The latter are old railways, covered with trees where natural paths have been laid out.
Construction started two years ago on a route that already existed for 80 percent. La Vélo Francette is clearly recognizable on the basis of special borders with a very recognizable logo which consists of a ‘grave cock’ with a wheel that determines the direction. The difficulty factor is more in the length and your own ambitions for how long you want to do over the 630 km. The toughest part is mainly in the hills near Clécy where you will encounter some short and nasty climbs. But above all, La Vélo Francette is an introduction to French culture and the charm of the many small towns on the route. Those who want to enjoy the full route should take into account a duration of 8 – 10 days.
Along the route you will find campsites, gîtes and hotels that are adapted for cyclists. Think of bicycle sheds, repair supplies, adapted meals and, not to forget, charging points for e-bikes, because these modern bicycles are rapidly increasing in popularity in France.
Because natural roads are also used, it is advisable to take a good look at the tires. The route seems less suitable for thin cycling tires. The route is now rapidly growing in popularity in France itself, England and the Netherlands.
With a stretch of over 180 km in the Poitou-Charentes, the Vélofrancette is important for this area. Add to that the 850 km of cycling routes, and you immediately realize that this region is ideally suited for a cycling holiday.
Angelique de Niort
In addition to a cycling area, the Poitou-Charentes is also an area for notorious lovers of good food. Those who love goat cheese will not immediately realize that more than 50 percent of all goat cheese sold in the Netherlands comes from the Poitou-Charentes, but it is. Highly recommended are ‘Chabichou du Poitou’ and ‘Mothais sur feuille’, the two most famous goat cheeses in this region.
What should not be missed is a culinary stop at chocolate workshop ‘Le Marais à l’ambassade du cacao’. That sounds like a mouth full and it is. In the workshop not only chocolate is made, but also the famous ‘Angélique de Niort’ jam and liqueur from this region. The base is angelica (Angélique) which grows in this region, looks like rhubarb, is candied seven times and is used as a base for all kinds of sweet treats. Those who have a sugar dip after a long bike ride should definitely stop here.
The inhabitants also see the angelica as a cure for certain diseases and every year in May in the town of Bessine celebrate the angelica festival (fête de l’Angélique) organized by the Angelica Association of the Poitevin marsh.
Baron Otard Cognac
You have to drink Cognac in Cognac. You can’t get any closer to the source. And while you’re there, you should definitely take a look inside the special world of Baron Otard’s castle. According to the guide it is haunted and strange things happen. The drama of the old Baron may be there, just like the Château de Cognac which used to serve as a prison and dates from the 12th century.
Since 1795 the castle has belonged to the Otard family. Baron Jean-Baptiste Antoine Otar started producing Cognac over 200 years ago and not without success. The meters thick walls and the high humidity ensure a unique ripening climate in the dark cellars. The Baron Otard VSOP, a blend of four types of cognac, Grand-Champagne, Petit-Champagne, Borderies and Fins Bois, mature in the cellars. Cognac lovers don’t mind reading it, and that’s a good thing because it’s much better to experience it yourself.
Don’t forget your credit card because prices start low and end at 3,500 euros for enthusiasts who love a really old Cognac. The cognac brand is now owned by the Bacardi group.
How to travel to Poitou-Charentes
Le Poitou-Charentes is easy to reach by car. It makes sense to take the Aquitaine via the A2 over Paris in the direction of Bordeaux. A much longer route that is also worth it and runs a lot quieter over Nantes.
For those who want to visit the area by train, it is best to do so with the TGV. For this you have to take the metro in Paris for 10 minutes to Montparnasse station. The connection to Gare du Nord is almost at the arrival platform of the high-speed lines from the Netherlands and Belgium. From Montparnasse there are super-fast trains to Poitiers and Bordeaux, among others.
At the arrival locations you will find plenty of options for connections to public transport, car rental or bicycle rental.
