Cozy village, tax-free shopping and fantastic slopes!
In winter, skiing is really my biggest hobby, because being active all day in the fresh mountain air is so much fun! And I almost always do that in Austria or France, in Italy for example I had never skied before. Until last month. I discovered Livigno and it was really enjoyable there!
About Livigno
Livigno is located in the north of Italy, in Lombardy. To get there you have to grit your teeth, because Livigno is not very easy to reach. Livigno is located at the very tip of Italy, close to the Swiss border, or actually sort of wedged in by Switzerland. You can fly to Milan or Innsbruck, for example, but then you still have to travel about three hours by road. From the Netherlands by car is of course also possible, according to Google Maps you will be on the road for at least 10 hours (1,000 km). To get there you also have to go through an expensive tunnel that is owned by the Swiss and it can sometimes be busy there. But… once you’re there, everything is fine again because Livigno is a really nice place!
The village is located at just over 1,800 meters and is quite large, not so much in the number of inhabitants but mainly because it is an elongated village. The people here are sporty, they like to be active on the mountain and that does not only apply to winter. In summer, Livigno is a place where many athletes like to go cycling, climbing or hiking in the mountains. It is also a great destination for sporty people in winter. Here in Livigno you will be motivated to exercise and play sports in every possible way. At the very beginning of the village of Aquagranda, for example, there is a place where you can come to do sports, swim or relax in the wellness area. It is one of the highest sports and wellness centers in Europe and that is of course interesting for athletes because training at height promotes performance. But a visit to Aquagranda is more than worth it not only for sports, but also for relaxation. The huge wellness center has several swimming pools, steam cabins, a salt bath, saunas and areas to just relax. Whether you do it after skiing or as a replacement for a day on the slopes, a few hours in Aquagranda will leave you feeling rejuvenated.
But also for those who don’t want to ski, there is so much more to do here, such as snowshoeing, cross-country skiing or even downhill fat biking. As long as you’re outside and busy, you’re at home here. Feel the Alps they say in Livigno and the best way to literally feel the mountains is when you’re on the move.
Tax-free shopping in Livigno
Because Livigno is quite remote, it was decided in the past that the village should be given a tax-free status to increase its appeal. This means that you do not pay VAT here and that automatically means that you can shop here cheaply. You don’t pay tax on things like drinks and perfume, but that also applies to clothing, for example. And then you naturally wonder whether that is really an advantage, because you can shop well in almost no winter sports village, but in Livigno it really is because in this village you will find a lot of very nice shops. Not only typical outdoor shops with mostly clothes that you wear on the mountain, but also shops with sunglasses, clothing and shoes. You are here in Italy, in the land of fashion.
You will find all those nice shops in the elongated shopping street and from about 4 pm it becomes super cozy in the center of the village. A lot of people come to shop and stroll through the shop windows, or they come for something to eat and drink and for that you have a huge choice as the village is bursting with nice bars and restaurants. Hotel Bivio is recommended, where you can have a nice drink after skiing and Marco’s Pub is also nice because you can find live music there on many evenings. You can eat well almost everywhere, because Italian cuisine is and remains one of the best cuisines in the world. If it snows in the evening, the village will be even more beautiful than during the day!
Skiing in Livigno: Mottolino and Carosello
Livigno is also a very nice place for skiing. The village is located in a valley and you can go up the mountain on two sides: the Mottolino and the Carosello. The unfortunate thing is that you have to make a choice on which side to ski as there is no connection between the two areas. There is of course a bus, but there is no direct connection. Incidentally, this is being discussed, the political game is in full swing, but in the coming years it will still be a matter of choice. And that is quite difficult, because which side is the best?
The first day we go up the Mottolino. On the Mottolino side it is really fantastic skiing, especially when it has snowed a bit at night like now and the top layer on the slopes is nice and soft. Almost all slopes on the Mottolino side are red, but don’t let that put you off if you’re not yet very good at skiing. The slopes are all very wide, even on that incredibly nice valley descent you can go down very nicely. Halfway through the morning you should definitely stop at Camanel di Planon, the nicest mountain hut on this side. Here they have the tastiest chocolate milk I’ve ever drunk and it’s also a wonderful place to relax. Outside you can enjoy a drink in comfortable loungers by a fire and in the morning there are also nice beats from the outdoor bar. Lunch on the side of the Mottolino is the best and most delicious in the cozy restaurant Luciano’s. On the mountain you would almost forget that you are in Italy, but when bresaola, burrata and of course pasta are on the table it is completely clear where you are!
The next day the Carosello is on the program and the skiing there feels completely different than on the Mottolino. The slopes here are a bit narrower and it seems that this side is also a bit more popular. The biggest advantage is that the sun shines a bit more here and skiing in the sun is also very nice. The elevators on this side are not super modern and fast, but they are working on it. If you are going to ski in Livigno next year, the new gondola that will take you to the highest point on this side should be ready. Also on the side of the Carosello, the slopes are easily accessible and you can go down everywhere without being a pro. At the top of the Carosello 3,000 lift you will find a large mountain hut where you can have lunch. The main part is the self-service restaurant, but at the very back is a small restaurant where you can eat local specialties. And with a glass of Italian wine it is really a top spot.
As a winter sports destination, Livigno made a very good impression on me. Not only because you can ski there and the snow is also good, but especially because of the good vibe that hangs here. It is beautiful, everywhere you go the people are nice and the Italian food and drink also makes the day a bit better. It’s just a lovely place in every way, where you quickly feel at home. You don’t meet very many Dutch people there, because they have not yet been able to find their way to Livigno in large numbers, but that is actually so nice. It gives you the feeling that you have ‘discovered’ this special place yourself. My first winter sport in Italy was therefore a hundred percent successful and I am also one hundred percent sure that this was not the last time!
