Every Friday afternoon through Saturday evening is Shabbat time, or the most important day of rest in Judaism. You can somewhat compare it with our Sunday, only they observe these rules a little more strictly in Jerusalem. This means that the shops and restaurants remain closed, no cars are driven, public transport is also at a standstill and that no electricity is used for cooking. I was in Jerusalem on Shabbat and I had quite a few questions beforehand about this special day. If you are going to Jerusalem or another place in Israel during Shabbat soon, I would be happy to give you tips!
It’s good to know that Shabbat starts and ends at a different time each week. It starts a few minutes before sunset on Friday and lasts until about an hour after sunset on Saturday. In practice, you notice that many shops close earlier. On Friday afternoon at about 2 o’clock it was still a madhouse in the modern center of the city. Three hours later, almost everything was closed. On this site you can see the official times of Shabbat.
Tips for eating out during Shabbat time in Jerusalem
Before going to Jerusalem I was a bit nervous about the food. I read online that many restaurants would be closed and it was difficult to estimate what time everything would close. In retrospect it turned out not to be too bad and we were able to eat well during Shabbat in Jerusalem.
Rent an apartment with its own kitchen
To be on the safe side, I rented an apartment with its own kitchen. Now that’s a good idea anyway if you want to save some money, since eating out is not a cheap affair all over Israel. But this way you at least have the opportunity to cook yourself, if you don’t feel like or have the time to look for something that is open.
Stock up on treats at Mahane Yehuda Market
The Mahane Yehuda Market is a household name in Jerusalem and on Friday afternoons it is one big madhouse. It seems as if the whole city wants to do their shopping for Shabbat here. That is what makes Mahane Yehuda on Fridays so much fun as far as I’m concerned. If you don’t want to eat out on Shabbat in the evening, I recommend that you enjoy an extensive lunch here. Buy some olives, baklava and other goodies and I’m sure you’ll get through the evening just fine.
Tip: the vegetarian wraps at Jahnun Bar are delicious. There is a long line out the door, but don’t let that put you off. The pace is high and it’s your turn in no time.
Breakfast at Etz Cafe
For breakfast on Shabbat, Etz Cafe is definitely recommended. This business has a nice terrace and the menu consists of a mix of Western and Israeli dishes. The portions are huge, so you certainly lay a good foundation for a day in the city.
Etz Cafe, Yanai St 3, Jerusalem
Have a drink on the roof terrace of Mamilla Hotel
There are few places where you can go for a good view of the city. Mamilla Hotel is a great option for a sunset drink. From here you have a view of the outside of the Wailing Wall and you can see part of the old town. Just like everywhere in Israel, the drink is pricey here, but with this view it is completely worth it in my opinion. You can also dine here during Shabbat, but only cold dishes are on the menu.
Mamilla Hotel, Shlomo ha-Melekh St 11, Jerusalem
Dine at Pergamon
I chose to dine at Pergamon, an all vegetarian restaurant outside the old town, on Shabbat. A good choice, because the dishes were all delicious. Tip: opt for a tasting of 3 or 5 appetizers to share to get the most out of your tasting. The homemade gnocchi and the baked sweet potato are highly recommended. Make sure you reserve a table. This restaurant is very popular during Shabbat and when we were there people were constantly being turned away because they were out of space.
Pergamon, Heleni ha-Malka St 7, Jerusalem
Transportation during Shabbat in Jerusalem
Public transportation in Jerusalem (and in other Israeli cities) comes to a standstill on Shabbat time. This means that the bus and the train are not an option. I myself traveled by bus from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem on Friday at the end of the morning and this went fine, as long as you take into account that there is nothing more driving at the end of the afternoon. By the way, people also don’t drive their own cars, which makes for very empty streets in some places. A special image!
Sherut taxi
If you want to cover longer distances, the Sherut or a regular taxi is your best option. Sheruts are minibuses that are driven by Arabs and therefore also go on the road during Shabbat. The downside of the Sherut is that these are shared vans. They only leave when it is full. As a result, it may just be that you have to wait a long time before you go on the road. If you are in a hurry, it is better to opt for a regular taxi. This is of course a lot more expensive than the Sherut.
Walk
In the old city center of Jerusalem everything is within walking distance. We stayed about a 20 minute walk from the city walls, so we didn’t need transport to get there. If you are indeed in Jerusalem during Shabbat, I would recommend that you choose an accommodation within walking distance of the sights. This saves a lot of extra walking.
Bicycles
Do you want to explore the city further or do you stay in a hotel or apartment that is not within walking distance of the old city? Then the bicycle is a good option. There is a lot of cycling in Israel and there are therefore plenty of rental companies in Jerusalem. Park your bike outside the city walls and continue exploring on foot.
Things to Do on Shabbat in Jerusalem
Most shops and restaurants in Jerusalem are closed on Shabbat, but that doesn’t mean you can’t do anything. In fact, I think Shabbat is the perfect time to explore the old town. Three quarters of this part of the city is Arab, which means that everything is open here. Please note: you are not allowed to photograph the Wailing Wall during Shabbat. The Temple Mount is also not to be visited during this period.
Book a city tour through the Old Town
I found it ideal to do a city tour of old Jerusalem on Shabbat. The city center is only one square kilometer in size, but so much has happened and to tell about it, as far as I’m concerned you’re missing out if you don’t go out with a guide. I arranged my tour through GetYourGuide and the guide was really fantastic. The tour was supposed to last 4 hours, but in the end we spent about 6 hours. The impressive stories, the historical locations and the people, it was all equally interesting. Definitely a must if you are in Jerusalem during Shabbat (and outside, actually).
Climb the Mount of Olives for the view
From the Mount of Olives you have a fantastic view over the city and you can make this climb at any time. The name of Olives actually sounds steeper than it is. Within 10 minutes we were climbing at the Domius Flevit church, a point from which your view is almost the same as from the top. There are hardly any other tourists to be seen here, while it was a lot busier on top of the ‘mountain’. So I would recommend, especially on a hot day, to walk to this point and enjoy the view from here.
Go on an excursion outside the city
Of course it is also an option to go out of town during Shabbat. All kinds of day tours are offered that also continue on Shabbat. For example, I had doubts about a tour where you drive into the desert to watch the sunrise from the ancient ruins of Masada. In the end I chose to stay in Jerusalem, because otherwise I really wouldn’t see anything of this city. If I had more time to spare, I would definitely have gone for a day tour outside of Jerusalem!
Jerusalem is a special destination anyway, but during Shabbat it takes on something special for me. The little traffic and the peace and quiet create a special atmosphere that cannot be easily captured in words. In any case, don’t be put off by Shabbat, it’s all not too bad as long as you plan it a little in advance.
