Jerash: the Rome of Jordan

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The main reason I wanted to go to Jordan was to see the wonder of the world Petra in person. It was only when I started to learn more about Jordan that I read about Jerash and I was immediately convinced that I wanted to visit this place. Jerash is one of the largest and best preserved Roman ruins outside of Italy. It is even the second most popular place in Jordan after Petra. I found Jerash very impressive and I definitely recommend you to visit this special city during your trip through Jordan. Take a look at beautiful Jerash, the Rome of Jordan!

Where is Jerash and how do you get there?

Jerash is located about 50 kilometers north of the capital Amman. It takes about an hour from Amman by car. Just keep in mind that traffic from Amman to Jerash can be quite chaotic. However, the road itself is good. The further north we drive, the greener it gets along the way. Parking is available on site next to the Visitor’s Center. If you don’t have a rental car, you can also go to Jerash by bus or taxi. However, the bus service seems to be quite erratic and unreliable, so a taxi is often a better option. You can easily arrange a taxi at your accommodation in Amman.

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Drive a car from Amman to Jerash
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Jerash: the Rome of Jordan

When is the best time to visit Jerash?

Jerash is open in winter from 8 am to 4 pm. In summer, the doors also open at 8am, but don’t close until 8pm. Please note that different opening times apply on Fridays and public holidays. View the current opening hours here. I would recommend that you visit Jerash as early in the day as possible. It is still somewhat cool and you have a large part of the city to yourself. Most tour buses and school trips do not arrive until late in the morning.

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What is the entrance fee to Jerash and is admission included with the Jordan Pass?

The entrance fee for Jerash is 10 Jordanian Dinar. Entry to Jerash is included with a Jordan Pass. If you are staying in Jordan for more than three nights and want to visit both Jerash and Petra, I would really recommend purchasing this pass. The price of a Jordan Pass is 70 Jordanian Dinar. This includes the price for your 40 Dinar tourist visa, as well as entry to more than 40 attractions in Jordan. With this pass we visited, in addition to Jerash, Wadi Rum, Al Karak, Shobak and the Amphitheater of Amman. In addition, you can choose one, two or three days access to Petra. Even if you only visit Jerash (10 Dinar) and Petra (50 Dinar), you can easily offset the purchase cost of 70 Jordanian Dinar because of the 40 Dinar free visa.

What is there to see in Jerash?

I had already read that Jerash was quite big, but I was still surprised that it is actually a complete city. There is therefore a lot to see. Below you will find the most important structures of the old part of Jerash.

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Hadrian Arch

We started our route through Jerash at Hadrian’s Arch. This impressive triumphal arch was built in honor of the visit of Emperor Hadrian in 129 AD. The Hadrianus Ach is also free to visit, as is the nearby Hippodrome.

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South Gate

Only when you walk to the South Gate will your ticket be checked. The South Gate is somewhat smaller than Hadrian’s Arch, but also very beautiful. In the past, the open area within the gate served as a marketplace.

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Forum

From the South Gate we walk to the Forum, also known as Oval Plaza. The Forum is a large oval square at the beginning of the Cardo, the main street of old Jerash. The square was built in the first century AD and is no less than 80 by 90 meters long. The Forum is surrounded by 160 large columns.

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Zeus Temple

From the Forum you have a nice view of the Zeus Temple. Unfortunately, a large part of this temple was destroyed during an earthquake, but on a drawing on one of the information boards you can still see what the temple looked like in the past.

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South Theater

Next to the Zeus Temple is the South Theater, the largest theater in Jerash. This amphitheater has more than 3000 seats. Local bagpipers in costume often perform here, including during our visit. I especially liked the part behind the stage, with the different columns and passages.

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Churches in Jerash

From the theater we walk through the green hills of Jerash to the various old churches that are a little further away. Unfortunately, these churches have largely been destroyed, but at one of the churches we still see a beautiful old mosaic floor that has been well preserved.

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Church of Bishop Isaiah, Jerash
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Church of Saints Cosmas and Damianus, Jerash

Temple of Artemis

Next to this church is the impressive Temple of Artemis with its striking high columns. This temple was built in tribute to Artemis, the patron god of Jerash. It used to be the most important building in the city.

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North Theater

Also on the north side of the old town is a beautiful theater. The North Theater is somewhat smaller than the southern version, but certainly no less beautiful. From the upper part of the theater you also have a nice view of the North Gate with the modern city in the background.

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Tetra Pylon & North Gate

From the theater we walk to Tetra Pylon, a large square gate. Via a nice path surrounded by columns we eventually arrive at the North Gate, which is the end point of the old city.

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North Tetrapylon, Jerash

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Cardo Maximus

We walk back via the Cardo Maximus, also called the Colonnaded Street. This is the main street of the old town. This 600 meters long road runs right through the city. The Cardo Maximus used to be surrounded by the most important buildings of the city, some of which are still well intact.

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Propylaeum

One of these buildings that is still largely intact is the Propylaeum. This used to be the entrance to the processional route to the Temple of Artemis.

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Nymphaeum

The Nymphaeum is also well preserved. In the past, this special building served as the city’s public fountain. The water flowed over the facade into the large tub at the bottom.

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Cathedral of Jerash

Next to the Nymphaeum you will find the Cathedral of Jerash. It is not entirely clear why this structure is called the cathedral, as there is no evidence that this structure was more important than any of the other churches. The most characteristic feature of the cathedral is the large gate leading to the Temple of Dionysus.

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One last look at Jerash

From the cathedral we walk back to our starting point. We take one last look at the impressive ruins of the city. Jerash really surprised me. I had no idea I would be so impressed by ancient ruins. I also thought that the city has remained very well intact, which gives you a really good idea of ​​what the city looked like in the past.

Other tips for a visit to Jerash

  • It can get very hot in Jerash especially in summer and there is virtually no shade. So visit Jerash early in the morning and bring a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water.
  • Jerash is a lot bigger than I expected and you have to walk quite a bit to get to the various structures. Therefore make sure you have good (walking) shoes if you want to see the entire city.
  • Allow between 1.5 and 4 hours for your visit. How long you need for your visit depends mainly on your own interests and the weather. We were lucky that it was fairly cool with us, which made it easy to explore all of Jerash on foot.
  • Did your visit make you hungry? At Lebanese House Um Khali you can enjoy a nice lunch.

Road trip in Jordan

We visited Jerash during our road trip through Jordan. Besides Jerash we have seen many more special places in this country, such as Petra, Wadi Rum, the King’s Highway and the Dead Sea. Are you curious about a tour through Jordan? Read more about our tour of Jordan in one week, with more information about our route, driving in Jordan and the costs of traveling in Jordan.